After just a couple days in Germany, we were on a train to Italy. Originally we planned on taking a one-way flight to Rome, but we missed our plane. Fortunately, the train ticket we bought for the return trip was a round-trip ticket, so no money lost.

Traveling in style--2nd Class style. The long-range trains were mostly empty, so we had a 6-person cabin to ourselves.

A random train station we passed. Our route took us briefly though Austria.

Pisa Central station.

The view out from Pisa Central.
So in Pisa we stayed with Fabio, a 25ish computer science major. Another couch surfer from Dutch Belgium named Oswin was staying there as well. Oswin had just learned some recipes from his girlfriend's mother (chicken paella and seafood with shrimp), so he cooked for us that evening. Some of Fabio's friends came over and we hung out for a while, but we got bored when they started drinking some strange drink involving vodka, raspberry syrup, and tabasco, so we left to see the Leaning Tower. We got there at 2am, took a look, and then headed back (about 30 minutes walk). At night there's a fence so you can't get very close, but it's just a tower that's leaning. Plus the cops were there.

Back on the train again, heading to
La Spezia on the northwestern coast.

Outside the train station. Here we stayed with Mattias, a 30ish art critic. His parents own an apartment downtown (where he grew up), but they moved out to the country and he mostly lives in a house with his wife. But he hosts couchsurfers at the apartment.

La Spezia is the nicest place we visited in Italy--lots of open walking spaces, pretty clean, not too touristy. Our favorite part of the city was the huge, open-air covered market that was open every day. It was a cornucopia of fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat, seafood, and bread.





Yes, that's a cured whole pig's head.


This guy was extremely nice and enthusiastic. He didn't speak much English and Eri doesn't speak much Italian (and I speak none), but it didn't present a problem. We asked about the salamis, and he cut some down for us to try. We ended up buying four kinds of meat for our snacks and sandwiches. All of them were really good, especially good was a salami that had olive slices in it. He even gave us a little gift mug with candy in it.

The real reason for going to La Spezia was to hike
Cinque Terre, five old towns by the sea that are connected by trails. We took a train to the northernmost city (Monterossa) and hiked south.

The trail winds through a series of farms and vineyards that must be hundreds of years old. The scenery was beautiful, and the weather was perfect--at some points we were in t-shirts!




Coming into the town of Vernazza.

At one point there was a few bags of catfood and some dishes with a sign that said something about "no one cares about these cats. Please feed them," or something. Eri, ever the cat lover, stopped and fed them, gave them some of our water, and talked with them for a bit.

After eating lunch outside of Vernazza, we hiked towards Corniglia. There's a beach down from the main trail that Eri wanted to go to, so we left the beaten path and climbed down a ways. When the sun started to go down, we decided to head back, as the trail was somewhat overgrown. We decided to try and take a shortcut, but the way we went was
extremely overgrown and difficult. We had to scale a few terraced rock walls, and we were constantly getting stuck by prickly vines. Just as darkness closed in, we made it back to the main trail and headed to Corniglia.

The next day, our plan was to head to Florence, but Eri realized that she forgot her Nalgene bottle in Pisa. So we took a train there and tried to contact Fabio. He wasn't in, so we sat by his doorstep and had a snack. After an hour or so he got back and was glad to see us. He was leaving the next day to visit his parents, so we helped him finish off his remaining food (lunch pictured above).